The Other Half 3D Printing experience

asked 2014-03-02 21:19:42 +0300

teun

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updated 2014-06-17 12:38:38 +0300

eric

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https://twitter.com/erkki...

AS I was doing some research on having a Other Half printed I Bumped into several knowledge gaps.

So I browsed to 3dhubs.com , for me location Amsterdam was the best, but from this hub a lot of global places are accessible.

From here it is a simple 3 steps as it seems but then there are the options:

Type of printer used (ultimaker, RepRap, Cune .. etc.)
Resolution of printer (high , medium)
Type of material (Nylon, PET, ABS, PLA .. .etc.

So here comes the question. What material would be the best, what printer will give the best result?

What are your experiences, what does JollaHQ recommend?

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A friend has Mendel90 3D printer. So far we have only tried printing TOH using PLA. The first print came out quite well considering the .stl file used was not from Jolla but a Jolla Fan. Successive prints have suffered 'delamination'; PLA coming off in thin strips. ABS is next when we find the time - as usual, earning a living gets in the way. Here's another thread here on JollaTogether, a few users sharing their experiences with a few photos as well; https://together.jolla.com/question/24326/toh-from-shapeways/

Spam Hunter ( 2014-03-02 22:05:29 +0300 )edit

I can add my experience with printing TOH from the official SDK on a Prusa Mendel I2. It was printed from ABS using a 0.5 mm nozzle, layer height 0.25 mm and sliced with Slic3r. The result looks like this: 3D printed ABS Jolla TOH

Full-resolution photo is here.

It fits rather well on the Jolla, but unfortunately does not snap on it so can't be really used as a regular TOH. I think the reason is that the small ridges that are present on the inside of TOH walls and which make TOH snap & hold on the Jolla were not printed properly. This could be due their position (hanging in the air from the printers point of view) and/or due to their small size being below the printing resolution (layer height, nozzle diameter). So that's my experience with the Jolla so far. I think I might try to print it with support material next time, might help with the ridges.

And if you were able to print a TOH that fits & "snaps", please share your knowledge! :)

MartinK ( 2014-03-03 03:22:57 +0300 )edit

I have two 3d printed TOHs. Red and black. The black is better as it was printed on high res mode and does actually snap fit. However they both suffer from the 3d file design that includes some subtle curves and rounded edges. It would be great is there was a simple 3d file with a fully flat back and square edges on all four sides too.

This would print far better on home brew machines.

bockersjv ( 2014-03-03 13:01:01 +0300 )edit

@bockersjv could you add a picture with your comment, would be great to see the black one, and what material was used to print it?

teun ( 2014-03-03 22:52:30 +0300 )edit

heres a more 3d printer friendly model made from the official http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:684919

rbckman ( 2017-04-04 08:52:46 +0300 )edit

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answered 2017-04-02 23:08:18 +0300

Monika
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That's a kind of controversial question because there are different types of printers and different types of technologies and ways how they are working. If it comes to choosing material for your print - I would recommend you to choose between PolyAmide and Polylactic Acid.

PolyAmide is more usually known under its trade name of Nylon, this is a hardwearing and easy to use material that can be used to manufacture complex yet high strength components. This is a relatively cheap material though its affinity to moisture surpasses even ABS so correct storage is essential when considering using Nylon.

Polylactic Acid is versatile and relatively low cost printing material that is readily available and can be used for many articles. It’s not the strongest of the printing polymers available but is extremely useful depending upon your application.

For the best reference you can read for example this article : http://3dinsider.com/5-most-popular-3d-printing-thermoplastics/

It can be useful.

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answered 2018-10-17 10:56:26 +0300

Hensch
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updated 2018-10-17 11:02:09 +0300

I've got a cheap Prusa i3 clone with some customizations. Prints with PLA are very good. But my experiences with PETG are way better (less warping). I am currently adding a cooling fan for the object and had some test runs so far. I didn't expect such a quality improvement. So my recommendation for beginners is to use PLA or PETG. To print a back cover with thin walls a cooling fan at some low speed is mandatory. Use a slightly higher printing temperature with cooling (i use 230°C for PETG). Bed temperature has to be as low as possible. I print on plain and clean glass with around 65°C for the first Layer (without cooling)) and do down to 50°C (with cooling) after that. Use high resolution as the small details like snapping corners have to be printed correctly. Be prepared to take several attempts to have a perfect fit. Some calibration of the model and maybe the printer may be needed.

A colleague of mine has an Anet A6. His experiences with PETG are not as good as mine. I think he's got a different glass plate. PETG Prints on anodized aluminum don't seem to stick well. Different printers may have different printing behaviors.

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